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For some people, Western wear is not just a type of clothing—it’s a lifestyle. These clothing items are worn out of necessity, rather than being worn as a fashion statement. For example, true cowboys must wear denim pants and Western boots for several reasons. If out toiling on a ranch horseback all day, they’ll need a sturdy pair of boots to keep themselves safe while in the saddle. From sprains and blisters to stepping on foreign objects, boots can prevent many unexpected circumstances. Denim pants help to protect legs from different elements like rain and snow, as well as from chafing that can occur from horseback riding. In many cases, denim pants ward off attacks from insects and snakes. How did utility apparel used on a daily basis for some turn into high fashion that is seen on runways? We dive into how Western wear made its appearance in high fashion and the tweaks that designers have made to this all-American staple of clothing.

Western wear’s origins are in the 18th century but didn’t become popularized in American culture until the 1920s. Levi Strauss & Co. and Pendleton Woolen Mills of Oregon each contributed to the rise of Western shirts in the 20s and 30s, with Jack Weil’s snap-button Western shirts emerging shortly after in the 1940s. As pop culture and media advanced in the 1950s and 60s, the idealization of the American cowboy spread like wildfire. In film, literature, theatrical productions, sporting Western shirts, cowboy hats, and boots was to be just like a “real” cowboy. The fantastical image of the cowboy was fleshed out further in the later 20th century and early 2000s. With movies like Urban Cowboy, Wild Wild West, No Country For Old Men, Hell or High Water, Coyote Ugly, and many more, the cowboy and girl looks would transcend from the screen and onto the runway.

A slew of high fashion designers have taken on the Western wear theme and rolled out their own takes on the once utilitarian cowboy get up. Calvin Klein, Coach, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Vetements, and others have, in the past and present, showcased Western-inspired looks in their collections. From pearl snaps and smile pockets, to intricate embroidery and leather fringe, these Western elements are consistently featured in the seasons of these notorious designers. Americana and all that it symbolizes—ruggedness, national roots, sincerity—continues to fall in line with the cowboy look. Designers put together collections that inspire the trends of tomorrow. It says something that Western wear is a recurrent theme, popping up in fashion shows in recent years. Through runway fashion, perhaps this is also a way in which designers can pay homage in some form to the creators of an entire lifestyle entity that was forged from necessity. By finding its way into high fashion, Western wear has cemented a permanent place for itself in pop culture.